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We highly recommend continuing with the same food and products that we've been using in our cattery to ensure a seamless transition for your kitten to their new home. Consistency in diet and products can help maintain their comfort and well-being during this adjustment period.

 

  1. Dry food: Royal Canin Mother & Babycat

  2. Wet food: Ziwipeak/Zealandia/Royal canin mother & babycat wet food

  3. Treats (optional): freeze dried cat food (Freeze Dried Australia, Freezy Paws, Feline Natural etc)

  4. Goat milk (optional)

  5. Feeding bowls (No plastic bowls)

  6. Litter Box

    • medium-sized to allow some space for the kitten to grow up

    • half enclosed preferably

    • start with front entry for easy access

  7. Any Tofu litter

  8. Crate/Carrier

  9. Milbemax allwormer (Every 3 months)

  10. Advocate (Monthly)

  11. Scratching post/Cat tree

  12. Toys (balls, teasers, laser pointer etc)

  13. If you are going to feed your kitten a raw diet, please do some research beforehand:

    • General rule: 85% meat, 5% Liver and 10% bones/calcium

    • Human grade diced beef/roo mince available at Costco, Aldi, Woolworth or Coles (we do not recommend raw pork, lamb or chicken mince).

    • diverse types of meat is more preferable if the source is reliable.

    • ***Supplements to add in raw mince: Calcium (or use small bones such as chicken necks/wing tips as substitute), Vitamin A (or liver as substitute), Vitamin B, minerals, taurine, Lactoferrin.

    • PLEASE BE AWARE!!! Raw mince without any supplements cannot be used as a long-term diet.

Furrytail pet supplies are available @ PawzUp

For all the proud owners of Furrytail kittens, you are eligible to receive a $15 off for all orders over $100. Please use code: FURRYTAIL at checkout.

Key points For Daily Care

  • Provide plenty of human companionship

  • Provide regular, suitable meals with a constant supply of fresh water

  • Provide the cat with litter tray and clean it on a daily basis

  • Groom regularly. Longhaired cats require daily grooming

  • Vaccinate against the major feline diseases yearly

  • Worm regularly and provide treatment for fleas

  • Take the cat to vet when it shows any sign of illness - pet insurance can help offset the cost of veterinary treatment.

Bringing the kitten home

Moving to a new home can be particularly stressful for a kitten, especially if they've travelled a long distance. The stress of the journey can weaken their immune system, making them more susceptible to common symptoms like watery eyes, sneezing, and a reduced appetite. If you notice any of these symptoms, it's essential to monitor your kitten closely in the following days and seek advice from the breeder if needed.

 

 

Allow your kitten ample time to adjust to their new surroundings before introducing them to other animals in the household. Ensure all doors and windows are closed and consider covering fireplace to prevent accidents.

 

For the initial settling period, we recommend providing a quiet, preferably dark room, such as your bedroom or study, where you can spend time with your kitten. Place them in this space with the crate they travelled in, leaving the crate door open. The crate/carrier can serve as their first hiding place in their new home, offering a safe retreat if they feel overwhelmed. Ensure the area is warm, dry, and comfortable. To help ease their stress, we sprayed Feliway on all the blanket or cushion provided in their kitten pack. You can place it on their bed, cat tree, or their favourite spot.

 

Each kitten may react differently based on their personality. Some may immediately start exploring, while others may choose to hide. If your kitten opts for hiding, here are some ways to help them adjust:

  1. Engage them with the teasers provided in their kitten pack. If they're not interested initially, give them more time and space to acclimate.

  2. Keep the environment quiet and speak to them softly to create a calming atmosphere.

  3. Spend time near them, but instead of direct interaction, engage in quiet activities like reading a book nearby.

  4. Allow them to approach you at their own pace, and gently offer scratches around their neck if they seem receptive.

 

It's normal for kittens to meow frequently during the first days, due to separation anxiety. They may cry when you're out of sight but retreat when you approach, indicating a desire for attention coupled with uncertainty about their new environment and you. Patience is key as they gradually learn to trust their new surroundings and caretakers.

 

Initially, it's common for kittens to not eat much or use the litter box. However, they should urinate within the first 24 hours. If you don't notice any urine in the litter box, they may have relieved themselves in a wrong location. They should have a bowel movement by the end of Day 3; if not, please consult the breeder for advice.

 

British shorthairs in general do not like being picked up with their feet in the air. The kitten may try to bolt if he/she feels unsure. If you would like to hold them, please hold them firmly in the arms and make sure their feet are held or have some support. You can gently press them against your chest to provide a sense of security. Do not let them climb onto your shoulders as they may jump off to the ground from that height. When they want to run, you can push them back and give them a good scratch around the head. This approach helps them feel more comfortable and less anxious while being held, enhancing the bonding experience between you and your kitten.

Introducing other pets and children

Introduction to other household residents, whether they be children, dogs, or cats, should be approached with patience, gentleness, and caution to ensure a positive experience for everyone involved.

 

Children: Excited children can inadvertently harm a kitten, so it's crucial to supervise playtime and discourage unnecessary picking up of the kitten. Encourage children to sit on the floor and allow the kitten to approach them at its own pace. It's essential to respect the kitten's boundaries and not treat it like a toy. Remember that kittens need plenty of rest, so ensure they have quiet periods to sleep undisturbed.

 

Dogs: Introducing a kitten to a dog requires careful management to prevent conflict. We do not have puppy or dog in our household, so Furrytail kittens never met a dog before. Start by creating a safe space for the kitten, such as a large mesh pen, where they can observe each other from a distance. For excitable or aggressive dogs, keep them calm on a leash and reward them for good behaviour. Allow controlled interactions where the kitten can approach the dog if it feels comfortable. Progress gradually, keeping the dog on a leash initially for safety. For quieter or cat-friendly dogs, introductions can be made using a strong cat carrier placed on a high surface. Always supervise interactions and do not leave the kitten alone with resident dogs until they are well-acquainted and comfortable with each other.

 

Cats: Provide separate spaces for each cat initially and gradually allow supervised interactions. Monitor their body language for signs of stress or aggression and intervene if necessary. Allow them to progress at their own pace, rewarding positive interactions and providing plenty of praise and treats.

 

Useful techniques:

Feeding the kitten and resident animal on both sides of a door is a great way to create positive associations and facilitate a gradual introduction. This method allows the animals to associate each other's presence with something positive, like mealtime, helping to reduce any potential tension or anxiety.

 

Additionally, swapping blankets or bedding between the new kitten and the resident cat or dog can help them become familiar with each other's scent, which is an essential way animals recognise and communicate with each other. This scent swapping can aid in the gradual acclimation process and promote a smoother introduction when they finally meet face to face.

 

Overall, the key to successful introductions is patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement. By taking things slowly and respecting each animal's boundaries, you can help ensure a harmonious transition for everyone in the household.​

Feeding

When you first take a kitten home feed it on the same food it has been used to. A sudden change of diet combined with the stress of adapting to a new home can cause stomach upsets and diarrhoea.

Food tolerance can vary among cats, so the dry food we provide at the cattery is carefully selected to accommodate all needs but maybe not the best for individual. We always recommend a raw 'prey-based' diet, as this mimics their natural diet and can offer numerous health benefits. Alternatively, if a raw diet is not feasible, grain-free dry food is a suitable option for most families.

 

If you decide to transition your kitten to a new diet once they have settled into their new home, it's essential to do so gradually over 1-2 weeks to minimize digestive upset.

 

Diarrhea: If your kitten experiences diarrhea after introducing a new diet, it's important to take steps to help alleviate their discomfort and monitor their condition closely. Firstly, you can try fasting your kitten for 12 hours to give their digestive system a chance to rest and recover. After the fasting period, gradually reintroduce food by offering smaller portions than usual to avoid overwhelming their stomach. Persistent diarrhea lasting more than 24 hours warrants veterinary attention, as it could indicate an underlying health issue that needs to be addressed.

 

Fresh drinking water should always be available to your kitten to ensure they stay hydrated and maintain optimal health. By prioritizing their dietary needs and monitoring their health closely, you can help your kitten thrive in their new home.​

Toilet training

Cats are very fussy about their toilet habits and kittens will usually have learnt to use a litter box by copying their mother. You may just need to show your new kitten where the litter tray is and place it on the tray after meals, or when the kitten is sniffing, scratching or beginning to crouch and looks as if it is about to go!

Place the litter tray in a quiet, accessible corner where your kitten won't be disturbed. It's essential to keep the litter tray away from their food and water bowls, as cats may be reluctant to use it if it's too close to their eating area.

 

Keep the litter tray clean and emptied regularly to encourage your kitten to use it consistently. When cleaning the tray, avoid using disinfectants that are toxic to cats. Instead, opt for cat-friendly options like Fizzion for odour remover or F10 as a vet-grade disinfectant. Dettol or bleach are toxic to cats.

If your kitten has accidents elsewhere in the house, confine them to one room with a litter tray until they get the hang of using it regularly. Encourage them to use the litter tray by placing them on it after meals or when they show signs of needing to go, such as sniffing, scratching, or crouching.

If the kitten is reluctant to use the tray it could be because:

  • It is not clean enough - empty it more often

  • It is not big enough - it should be big enough for an adult cat to turn around in and to use more than once without getting dirty

  • You have cleaned it out with a chemical that is too strong smelling

  • It is too near the bed or food bowls

  • The location is not safe in their opition – avoid to put it next to noisy washing machine, or in a busy place that everyone will walk by

  • The kitten does not like the texture of the litter you have chosen - revert to the type it has used before.

Hazards in the home

Kittens are very inquisitive creatures and will investigate small, dark places which they can crawl into. For this reason, should your kitten go missing for any length of time, you should look in cupboards, wardrobes, outside sheds etc in case it has accidentally been shut in or got stuck.
Keep the washing machine and tumble dryer door shut when not in use and check them before putting the clothes in.

If your kitten is a plant nibbler then remove any plants which may be poisonous, for example Dieffenbachia (dumb cane), Poinsettia, Lily of the Valley, Christmas Cherry, Castor Oil plant, Avocado plant, rubber plant and ivy. Most cats will not touch such plants but kittens may be more inquisitive.

Chemicals in some essential oils, scented candles or air freshener can be very toxic to cats.
If you live in a flat above ground level or have a house with several storeys keep the windows shut or install fly screens to ensure that kittens do not fall out.

Entertainment

Kittens are naturally playful creatures and providing them with a variety of toys is essential to keep them mentally stimulated and physically active. You don't need to spend a lot of money on toys; simple items like cardboard boxes can provide endless entertainment for kittens.

 

Playtime is not only fun but also a great way for you to bond with your kitten and build trust. Use interactive toys like feathers on a string or laser pointers to engage your kitten in play sessions.

 

It's also important to provide your kitten with a scratching post to satisfy their natural urge to scratch and prevent them from damaging furniture. If your kitten continues to scratch furniture despite having a scratching post, you can try using a non-toxic no scratching spray to deter them from unwanted behaviour. Remember to always provide positive reinforcement and rewards when your kitten uses the scratching post correctly.

Grooming

Combing: Accustom your kitten to being groomed from an early age, particularly if it has a long coat. Grooming removes excess loose hairs which can cause fur balls to build up in the stomach. Combing and brushing will help remove these hairs and it is usually appreciated by the cat, provided it has been accustomed to grooming early in life. Grooming also gives you a chance to keep a close eye on your cat, assess its health and help to develop the bond between you. Always be gentle and make grooming a rewarding and pleasant experience.

The below comb is great for both longhairs and shorthairs.

 

 

Brush the teeth to prevent periodontal disease. Starting by allowing them to get used to the toothbrush without the pressure of brushing immediately can help build their comfort and tolerance.

 

Choose a 360 degree small brush. Letting them bite or chew on the toothbrush initially, even if they're not brushing properly, can help them become familiar with the sensation and presence of the brush in their mouth. This step is all about desensitising them to the toothbrush and creating positive associations.

 

Once your cat is more tolerant of the toothbrush, you can gradually transition to short brushing sessions. Start with just a few seconds at a time, focusing on gentle strokes along the outer surfaces of the teeth. Over time, as your cat becomes more comfortable and accustomed to the routine, you can gradually increase the duration of the brushing sessions. 

 

Trim the nails weekly or fortnightly. It’s important to get your kitten used to having their claws clipped at a young age. If claws get too long, they can get stuck, snagged or even pulled out, which could result in an injury. Clipping doesn't hurt if it’s done properly and can be done at home, at your local vet clinic or through professional grooming service. Be sure if you plan to trim your cats’ nails that you do one claw at a time and use a dedicated nail clipper.​

​Tips:

  • Start by choosing a comfortable spot and place the kitten on your knees. Press lightly on the footpad to extend the claw.

  • Clip the white tip of the claw without going close to the edge of the pink triangle. If you're unsure or uncomfortable you vet can do this for you.

 

​Check the ears regularly. If they look dirty, wipe them out with a damp cotton ball/pad. Use cleaning drops when needed. Avoid using cotton swabs, which can damage the interior of the ear.

​​

Vaccinations

To provide protection against potentially fatal infections, all of our kittens need to be vaccinated on a yearly basis. In the first year, we gave Fel-O-Vax 3 vaccinations to protect them from:

  1. Feline Enteritis

  2. Feline Rhinotracheitis

  3. Feline Calicivirus

According to the manufacturer, the first injection in the course is given at 8 weeks old and a second at 12 weeks. The second vaccination is most essential. We suggest a 3rd vaccination at 16 weeks in case the previous shoots are affected by antibodies in colostrum. After your kitten settles at new home, you can take him/her for the third at 16 weeks old and a yearly boost afterwards.

Worming & Flea Treatment

Worming: Worms can make kittens weak. Though Advocate is a all-in-one parasites, it doesn't cover tapeworm. We suggest to continue using this product as a flea and worming treatment. However, allwormer tablets (eg. Milbemax) are still necessary for every 3 months.

 

Flea: Even impeccably clean cats can pick up fleas, so it's essential to check for these pesky parasites while grooming your kitten. Flea dirt, which appears as small brown specks, is a telltale sign of flea infestation, especially around the neck and base of the tail. You can confirm flea dirt by placing it on damp cotton wool; it will slowly dissolve, leaving behind bloody streaks.

 

For effective flea control, it's crucial to not only kill adult fleas on the kitten but also prevent re-infestation from the environment. Traditional flea treatments like sprays, shampoos, and collars may contain substances that are potentially toxic to kittens and may not be as effective. Advocate, Frontline and Bravecto (3 months) are a recommended option that helps prevent fleas from infesting your kitten in the first place.

 

Remember that other animals in your home may also need to be treated for fleas, and it's essential to wash or replace your cat's bedding to prevent re-infestation.

Neutering

All of our kittens are desexed before they leave us as pets. Neutering male cats reduces the likelihood of indoor spraying to mark territory and decreases the chances of escaping or engaging in fights with other male cats.

Spaying female cats is crucial to prevent pyometra, unwanted litters, and backyard breeding. Desexing typically has no harmful effects and alleviates stress for both you and your cat. It promotes a healthier and happier life for your furry companion. Desexed cats tend to weigh 0.5-1kg heavier than undesexed ones.

Weight Control

Desexed cats tend to weigh 0.5-1kg heavier than undesexed cats. And obesity in cats, as in humans, can lead to various health issues.

Do not worry about overfeeding during the first year of a kitten's life while they experience rapid growth and development, similar to human teenagers. This period is crucial for their physical and cognitive development, and they require proper nutrition to support this growth.

While many veterinarians often reference a standard weight of around 5kg for cats, our breed's genetics and linage typically result in larger boning and subsequently higher average weights.

For our blue boys, the average weight ranges between 6-6.5kg, while blue girls typically weigh between 5-5.5kg. Goldens, on the other hand, are slightly lighter in weight, with boys averaging around 5-5.5kg and girls around 4kg. The diagram below indicates the good body condition between 3/5 - 4/5.

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Shopping List
Key Points For Daily Care
Introducing Other Pets and Children
Feeding
Toilet Training
Hazards In The Home
Entertainment
Grooming
Vaccinations
Worming & Flea Treatment
Neutering
Weight Control
Bringing The Kitten Home
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